The actual reason for coming all the way out to Fionnphort was, yes, to visit Iona, but mainly it was to be the launching spot for our second (but really first because the previous one was cancelled) boat trip.
Our destination was the tiny island of Staffa, about a 45 minute boat ride from Fionnphort. The day was drizzly and windy. We had no expectations the trip would actually happen, but we donned our waterproof pants for the first (and hopefully last) time, rugged up in double thermals, beanies and gloves and sat in the warm waiting room with the other hopefuls.
In what I can only describe as a St Columba miracle, the boat appeared on the horizon, lurched towards the pier, and 19 passengers embarked. Visions of the Gilligans Island ‘3 hour tour’ flashed through my mind, but hey, I’m no boat skipper. They must know what they’re doing, right? A few of us ventured out on deck, but most stayed snug inside.
The boat dipped and dived, thumped and rocked the whole way out to Staffa in 2m swells. It was great!
Staffa is the site of Fingal’s Cave, a huge cathedral like cave composed of vertical, hexagonal basalt columns that look like pillars. Almost identical to those at the Giants Causeway in Northern Ireland (which isn’t that far away when you come to think of it)! Ain’t geology grand!
The composer Felix Mendelssohn visited Staffa in 1839 and was so impressed with the acoustics of the waves echoing in the cave that he was inspired to compose his ‘Hebrides Overture’.
It was a shame the swell was so big we couldn’t land, as usually you can walk right into the cave, which would have been awesome. But we were happy with what we saw and glad we’d gotten so close.
Only one lady was sick on the way back!
We made such good time driving back to Craignure (now we were experienced one lane drivers), that we scammed our way onto an earlier ferry to Oban. We settled down for a cuppa and WiFi catch up.
The earlier ferry was a bonus, as we otherwise would have arrived too late to look around Oban town. Despite the damp weather and it being late in the season, the town was buzzing with tourists.
First stop was the Oban Seafood Hut (no surprises there) for some prawns and hot, fresh, steaming mussels.
Towering above the town high on a hill is McCaig’s Tower, a Colosseum like ‘folly’ commissioned in 1890 by local philanthropist John Stuart McCaig. His intention was to provide work for local unemployed stonemasons. It is an extraordinary structure, and just the absurdity and uselessness of it I found inspiring. 10/10 John McCaig, for even thinking of such an idea!
All those tourists in Oban had pretty much booked out every restaurant, so we had to settle for Chinese (have you ever had fried rice covered with gravy?). Not nice!
Thankfully, our accommodation is utter luxury compared to Carol and last night’s experience (we won’t mention being locked out). A king bed, bottle of wine (for me) and a Jacky Chan movie for John and all’s well.
There’s even a babbling brook outside the window to lull us to sleep.
Kanga And Wombats Adventures 