Kanga And Wombats Adventures

Day 9

The middle finger of the five is the Beara Peninsula. We set off to explore in blazing sunshine and brilliant blue skies, starting with two ‘firsts’. Me driving for the first time and also showing some bare leg skin at last by getting out of the jeans and into the peddle pushers. It must be warming up….in fact the Irish are bracing themselves for a heat wave later this week, expecting temperatures to soar to 29C! Once again, the route to the end of the peninsula started off being reasonably wide, at least allowing you to pass cars coming in the opposite direction without slowing down. It rapidly narrowed, until it became a case of backing up and finding a layby if needed. Luckily, it wasn’t super busy, and confrontation was largely avoided. Our aim, of course, was to reach the end of the peninsula, this time for a special reason. Ireland’s only cable car was sited at the end, carrying passengers over to Dursey Island. This is where the cable car crosses the water.

But unfortunately, on the gate was this sign.

So we soaked in the vista, and retreated from whence we had come!

Traversing the western side of the peninsula, we were treated to some beautiful views.

And on advice from our host last night, we drove up to the Healy Pass, along the way passing this

and reaching the top to be rewarded with this gem.

With time on our side (because the cable car was a no go), we decided to start the Big ROK, and made our way down the east coast as far as Sneem before doubling back to reach Killarney via Molls Gap. Unfortunately, the Molls Gap road was closed due to a fallen rock wall, so we had to detour via Kilgarvan to reach our destination for the night at Killorglin, a long way round!

No matter, our home for the next three nights is pretty special, lovely host Margaret who HAS to be on the spectrum, recommended we eat locally at Jack’s Seafood restaurant. Lobster was good, but we do it much better in Aus.

This was the view from our bedroom window as we went to bed. No joke.

Day 8

We began our exploration of the south western part of Cork today, those amazing five peninsulas of land that reach out into the Atlantic Ocean like crooked witch’s fingers. Imagine your left hand. Today we explored Pinkie, or Mizen Head, and the Ring Finger, Sheep’s Head. Not necessarily to scale of course! Fingers to Heads I mean.

Mizen Head is the larger of the two, totally beautiful. From a relatively new Visitors Centre, various paths lead you to the lighthouse station, crossing a bridge spanning a spectacular chasm in the black folded rocks. A geologists dream.

The old lighthouse station has been turned into a museum, the likes of which have not been touched for donkeys. You can see the cobwebs growing before your eyes. Very quaint.

We double tracked back to have lunch at Crookhaven, a tiny village tucked away in a sheltered inlet, where Marconi spent considerable time perfecting his radio transmitting and experimenting with towers. He’d fallen in love with and married an Irish girl it seems, so he’d left his native Italy to be with her. She couldn’t handle his obsession though, and three kids and 19 years later, they divorced. Crab sandwiches and seafood chowder completely acceptable!

The smaller and narrower peninsula next was Ring Finger, or Sheep’s Head. Supposedly the quietest and least visited of all, we found it quite busy. A walkers paradise. After a slow 30km drive, the final extremely narrow winding road of about 10 kms leads you to a car park from where you have to walk the remaining 2kms to the tiny lighthouse at the end. It was a very hot day, and although the track was mostly flat, the steep parts proved challenging. The views were pretty stunning though!

Totally stuffed, we journeyed on to our accommodation at Bantry Bay, an absolute stunner. Definitely took Airbnb to a higher level. Wish we were staying longer. A queen bed at last! This is the view from ‘Seafinn’.

Day 7

After the rain of yesterday, a misty morning greeted us today. Felt and looked like winter. Lingered a bit chatting with our Airbnb hosts Anne and Paul, lovely laid back people.

By the time we set off, the mist had lifted and we sped along the N25 to Cork. Connie, our old neighbour in Bishop St was from County Cork, so we felt we owed it to her to visit her ‘capital city’. Sorry Connie, but Cork was just another city! Split in half by the River Lee, the main shopping centre lies to the south, with lots of variety, modern and old, but nothing uber amazing. The English Market was very quaint, and the produce looked pretty darned good.

We passed the statue of Father Michael, who crusaded against the evils of alcohol in the 1840’s and managed to persuade 250,000 people to take the pledge resulting in a 50% reduction in the production of whiskey! God bless him!

But most fun was a visit to St Anne’s Church where you could climb the tower along a very narrow passageway, ring the bells to your favourite tune along the way, then be rewarded at the top with great views of the city. We were gobsmacked that the local residents happily put up with all the random bell ringing, all day! How many times could you handle an amateur bell rendition of Amazing Grace, Abide With Me or Raindrops Keep Falling On My Head? Bizarre!

Leaving Cork behind, we headed towards the coast and stopped at Kinsale for lunch, a busy harbour town with narrow winding cobbled streets and colourful little shops. The seafood chowder at Kitty O’Shays was delicious.

We took the coast roads around to our home for tonight at Ross Carbery. We’re staying at a Bed and Breakfast, run by the very cheerful Englishman Ross! Ross gave us some great advice regarding a dinner venue…so glad we took him up! Hayes Restaurant at Glandore 15 minutes up the road. Simply spectacular scenery and food. For the first time in Ireland we were able to sit outside to eat, soaking up the afternoon/evening sun. To top off the day, on the way back to Ross Carbery, we found the Dromberg Stone Circle. Exploring it right on sunset (at 9.30pm!) was perfect.

Day 6

Our first wet day! Drizzly, consistent all day, but we were not deterred!

Our aim was to get to Tipperary, via what they call the Holy Glen and then return via the Blackwater Valley.

Our first stop was Clonmel, which the guidebooks told us was County Tipperary’s busiest town. Not today! Not another person in sight. We made our way to the towns most imposing building and were greeted by the volunteer on duty like long lost cousins. The building was originally a courthouse dating from 1675, now beautifully restored and called the Main Guard. Vanessa, our guide, was passionate about the building and had many stories to tell about it and her town. One hour later we escaped!

DESPITE every guide book telling you, and every local telling you that the Rock of Cashel was overated, we went, and it was! Braving the cold wind and rain we struggled up the hill to the site of the caiseal, Irish meaning fortress, along with busloads of other tourists. It is built on a rocky outcrop rising out of a flat grassy plain, and I imagine it would look quite spectacular say in the fog, or at sunset. But not today. The best photo I could get to capture it’s magnificence was from afar.

Onwards to Tipperary! A hot pub lunch warmed our spirits and had us singing our version of the wartime classic all the way down the N24.

Tipperary….tick!

At the eastern tip of the Galtee Mountains (well we think they were there, couldn’t tell because of the rain), is the moated Cahir Castle. Pretty intact, but largely rebuilt, it certainly looked imposing jutting out into the river.

We walked along the river bank while the rain ceased temporarily, and discovered the local preschool had made the forest walk into a fairy glade. Very cute!

By far the loveliest part of the day was to come. We drove further south across the Vee Gap down to Lismore, site of yet another castle by the river. This castle is 19th century and still being used by it’s owners, so it’s a ‘look from the outside’ only.

Our last stop for the day saw us nearby at the amazing Ballysaggartmore Towers, built in 1834 by the cruel Irish landlord Arthur Keily, to appease his wife. She wanted a residence grander than her sister-in-law’s. Arthur began by building two Gothic style gatehouses, about a km apart, both totally different. But poor Arthur ran out of money at this stage and the house was never built. Nowadays, you can walk through a forest to visit the lodges on a loop trail. It was just magical. We were the only ones there, such a beautiful place.

So, although the weather was not too good, our day ended on a high.

Day 5

Today we were to find out what travelling in Ireland on the weekend, on a spectacularly sunny day, in the summer, was like!

Left beautiful Borris, making our way to Enniscorthy in County Wexford. One of us was keen to catch the action at the National 1798 Rebellion Centre, showcasing exhibits on the uprising against British rule from that year. Unfortunately, the rebels lost and hundreds of men, women and children died. Unfortunately for John, the Centre was closed!

We continued south to the coast and a little town called Kilmore Quays, renowned apparently for their lobster. Not a lobster to be seen, but there were hundreds of little girls and boys from a local scout camp, making sandcastles on the beach who would have ended up looking like lobsters by the end of the day! We settled for a crab roll, which I must say was delicious!

We needed to go out to Hook Head…..what is it about humans that compels us to go as far as we possibly can, be it up, down or out. I think most of Wexford must have had the same idea because the very narrow road out to the lighthouse was like Pitt St, and every campervan in Christendom had arrived there before we did! Nevertheless, it served as a good ice cream stop!

Leaving the crowds behind, we beat a hasty retreat up the peninsula and took the car ferry over to County Waterford at Passage East, then on to our destination for the night at Dungarvan.

All in all, an underwhelming ordinary day. Guess you have to have them to make the others so special!

Day 4
Time for a back story. We planned this trip a few months ago, made all the bookings etc based on my extensive reading and knowledge of the Lonely Planet’s guide to 34 Amazing Road Trips in Ireland. Chatting with my old teaching mate Kathleen Molloy, (how more Irish can you get?), on telling her we were staying at Borris, she exclaimed “Borris? Are you f###ing joking? That’s where my cousins live and where I spend most of my time when visiting Ireland”. What a small world. Kath said there wasn’t much in Borris, but we disagree! There’s the River Barrow…

A stunning old 16 arched railway viaduct now turned into a walking track and picnic area..

And most importantly, Joyces Bar, where men are men, and the women can buy their groceries in the shop at the front!

We had such a great day exploring the Borris area and a bit further afield, as far as Kilkenny in the north. First heading south, we crossed the beautiful Barrow River at Graiguenamanagh, which boasts a six-arch stone bridge.

Not far away is the equally charming Inistioge, on the River Nore, which ups the ante with a 10-arch stone bridge.

Our first ancient ruin of the day was Jerpoint Abbey. Quite a small site, but with a wonderfully well-informed guide, we spent about an hour there. Originally founded by Benedictine monks in 1158, the Cisternians made a takeover bid 20 years later. The cloisters are the best preserved part of the Abbey, with intricate stone carvings of monks and figures depicting the 7 deadly sins on the pillars. This little fellow can be seen clutching his rosary beads.

Not far away are the ruins of Kells Priory. Completely different, a much larger site with the freedom to roam wherever you wanted to without the guides or crowds, save some sheep and lots of sheep poop. Very atmospheric set by the river. Kells was under the authority of the Augustinian monks, established in 1193, and had a turbulent history before it’s third “sacking” in the 1540’s.

Our next stop was Kilkenny, very touristy, but not too crowded. We had lunch at a lovely hotel right opposite the castle, and then explored the town.

Wending our way back to Borris, we treated ourselves to a posh dinner at Clashganny House. Google it.

Day 3
Picked up Neive the Nissan and made our way down the M50 to the Wicklow mountains south of Dublin. Within 30 minutes we were in the desolate looking hills, barren apart from purple heather and peat bog checkerboard troughs. We had been warned about the roads but the roller coaster ride across the ‘mountains’ was still a surprise. The Glenmacnass Valley between Sally Gap and Laragh was stunning, with its tiny river suddenly tumbling over the edge of the escarpment, not vertically but at a 60 degree angle, spread across white boulders making it look quiet striking.

At Glendalough, we visited the ancient historic monastic site made up of a collection of ruined buildings, churches and round tower founded in 498 by St Kevin who came to this peaceful valley for some contemplative time.

Our destination today was the town of Borris in County Carlow, our route taking us up through the Wicklow Gap and down through undulating roads lined with green paddocks, stone walls and lots of cows! Along the way we stumbled on the Black Castle at Leighlinbridge, not much of it left, but quite lovely right by the river.

Our first Airbnb in Ireland was perfect. A little self-contained flat attached to the main house had all we needed, with beautiful views to Mt Leinster, the highest peak in The Blackstairs Mountains. Very rural, very ‘horsey’.

Day 0

14 hours in cattle class is never pleasant! A very tight connection gave us our one and only view of Dubai….

But all was forgiven on the Dubai to Dublin link with us both lucky enough to have a row each to lie down, spread out and get those DVT ankles elevated. We hit Dublin about 9pm, still daylight. Found our digs eventually, not very well signposted, but hosted by the charming Marco, who also operated the Italian restaurant downstairs. We literally have an apartment rather than just a bedroom. Very spacious and elegant.

You could see the Temple Bar area across the river even from the toilet!

However, you couldn’t do anything risque near the windows….

Wanting to soak up that culture asap, we headed over the Liffey, through the pretty tacky touristy area of Temple Bar, further on to the outer tacky touristy area and found a real gem in the Trinity Bar. At least most of the tourists there were from Northern Ireland! With Paddy on vocals and guitar, John (not Partland) on the fiddle, pint of Guiness in hand, we finally felt we were in Ireland. Paddy even sang a song about Botany Bay to make us feel at home. Not the one we know, but one about Irishmen coming to Australia to find gold. As Tim Minchin said, “the tune is alright but the lyrics are dodgy”.This poster on the wall summed up the night pretty well…

Day 1

Awake at 4.55am, not because of jetlag, but because it was broad daylight. I had forgotten all about this northern hemisphere phenomenon. So we got going early. First stop Trinity College (Dublin University), including the famous Book of Kells. The books were initially written by monks in Scotland about 800 AD, but were brought to Ireland to protect them from marauding Vikings. They’re famous not just for being very old, but for their colourful patterns, drawings and calligraphy. I’m no expert, but they didn’t impress. Sorry! But the long room housing library books used from the 1800’s was amazing. We walked canalside, very pretty, then hiked to the other side of town to check out the Guiness Disneyland Brewery.

For €11 each, we were taken on a magical self-guided tour of the brewing process, across 6 storeys of displays, up escalators, under waterfalls, through barrel caves to finally reach the 7th level where you picked up your complimentary pint of brew enjoying the spectacular skyline view of Dublin from the very crowded bar. The bottom photo is from the outside of the building looking back up at the funky circular bar!

Weaving our way back home. We accidentally stumbled on the Palace Bar, THE place to go apparently, if you are a whiskey lover. Our bar companion was a yank from Las Vegas, once a fire fighter now turned whiskey guru. He gave us quite an education about the topic and assured us the display of whiskey at The Palace, featuring a bottle of the amber liquid from every ‘vintage’, was worth a cool €75000! Wow!

So by the end of the day we’d clocked up over 26000 steps. A great start to the trip!

Day 2

Headed out of town to the village of Howth (rhymes with ‘both’), on the northern fringe of Dublin, to do the 2 1/2 hour cliff walk. 4 hours later we finished absolutely wrecked. We must be getting older and slower. But it was worth every step. Spectacular scenery all the way on a gloriously hot sunny day.

Caught the train all the way back through the city to the southern most side of the bay at Sandycove. Sipping our fist pint for the day, we relaxed and looked back at the mountain we had conquered that morning.

Clocked up over 30000 steps today. Absolutely stuffed!

Fiddly Dee Potaties

Travel is a funny thing….What determines when and where you go?

Those who have read my previous blogs know that I tend to ‘go on’ a bit. I can’t seem to blog about the present before telling a story about the past to provide context. Makes it a bit long winded!

This blog, I’m afraid, is no different! Why break a habit? So here goes.

Our first trip this year takes us to the Emerald Isle, land of strange plants, little men with beards and pointed hats, dark coloured drinks with creamy foam atop and “fiddly dee potaties”. Conicidentally, potatie rhymes with honourable daughter No 2 Katie, and when she was little, we often called her Katie Potatie, a term I’m sure she adored!

Katie Potatie is rapidly coming up to a significant birthday, the big 3-0. In what must surely have been an alcoholic ‘celebration’ of some kind, I managed to persuade Wombat that it would be great to surprise her and lob up on her doorstep to help her celebrate!

Good idea Kanga…..high season, elevated airfares, keeping secrets…What were we thinking? Not only that, Katie now works in London and had already decided to spend her 30th in Nice! As you do.

Once we made the decision to go, we realised travelling all that way to sing ‘happy birthday’ was going to set us back a few grand. A lot of cash for a song! After another ‘celebration’, we then decided to get our money’s worth by going to Ireland beforehand!

Now do you get the title of my first post??

Our plan in a nutshell…Ireland for 25 days, fly to Nice the day before Katie Potaties 30th birthday and voila! Surprise!

So, with the scene set, we’re off!